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As a new comer to this great hobby of ours, you will most likely have been drawn to it by an interest in either fixed wing aircraft (planes) or helicopters (helis).. or BOTH! In this section of our site we hope to be able to provide some great advice for people wanting to get involved in the hobby, but who are unsure as to how to go about it. Below you'll find some great advice for those wishing to get started in our hobby (and which may very well be of interest to those who are not so new too!). Directly below there's a great beginner's guide to fixed wing RC, and then further down is an excellent guide for those intersted in helis. |
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G.M.A.A. The club can individually provide you with a lot of assistance and guidance through the experience of their members and facilities. A visit to the flying field (see below for details), to observe the different types of aircraft in flight, will be a good start. When you arrive at the field introduce yourself to other members, who will be glad to advise you and answer all your questions. You will be able to see and discuss various types of aircraft. Members that you speak to may have different and even conflicting ideas as to the size and type of aircraft, engine and radio which would suit you best, but all will give you the benefit of their experience. WHAT ARE THE PARTS OF A POWERED MODEL AIRCRAFT? The radio control has several components. The first is the Transmitter or TX and this has various levers which the pilot uses to control the aircraft. The second is the Receiver or RX and this is located on board the aircraft. It is powered by a Ni-Cad battery pack also on board. The transmitter on the ground sends signals to the receiver in the air which interprets the signals into messages to control little electric motors called servos attached to the receiver by electrical cables. These servos mechanically move push rods connected to the various controlling surfaces. The transmitter generally has a range far exceeding the ability of the ground pilot to see the plane. WHAT TYPE OF PLANE DO I REQUIRE? Something that is easy for an expert to do may be very difficult, or even impossible, for a learner. The motto, "Learn to crawl before you try to walk", must be heeded here. Most beginners are idealistic, and wish to build a model that looks like a real thing; like a scale model Spitfire. Such a model is to be avoided, because, while it may be fulfiling a dream it will almost certainly be too difficult for the learner to fly. Yes the common factor is "ARF trainer" for good reason. ARF stands for "Almost Ready to Fly". These are almost fully built and will get you into the air quickly, with a proven record of success. As your first aircraft they are inherently stable and predictable flyers. Club members will offer support and advice on completing your ARF. IS COLOUR OF A MODEL IMPORTANT? A model aircraft flying at a height of several hundred feet, can often be quite difficult to see. Many times a beginner has been heard to make a remark such as: "I can see it, but I can't tell which way it's going"! A model painted with unsuitable colour scheme can sometimes become almost invisible against a sky background. For instance, a white plane can blend into a white cloud background, or a light blue plane can disappear in a blue sky. It stands to reason therefore, that a colour scheme of a model is very important especially for the beginner. Certain colours, such as light blue, white, light grey and silver, can camouflage a plane against the sky and should therefore be avoided. Best colours for visual reflection, are bright warm colours such as red, orange, yellow etc. Light coloured models should be trimmed with a contrasting dark colour. Remember, a good colour scheme can make a model easier to see and therefore easier to fly. WHAT SIZE ENGINE SHOULD I BUY? The size and type of engine, will depend on the beginners choice of model however many kits will often suggest a choice of two, or even three, different sizes of engine, all of which may be considered suitable for that type of aircraft. A good general size motor for the beginner is the 46-size two-stroke engine as it offers good value for the beginner and complements the ARF Trainers. Model aircraft engines are also available in four stroke configurations but are more expensive. WHAT BRAND RADIO SHOULD I BUY? Many years ago, when Radio Control was in its infancy, many Radio Control Sets and Engines offered for sale in Model Shops were still in the experimental stages and were often unreliable. Some brands quickly gained a bad reputation because of this. Today, however, only the best have survived the test of time. Equipment now available is a far cry from the primitive beginnings of yesteryear. In general, unreliability is a thing of the past and many excellent brands are presently available. Choice is usually determined by price, with consideration being given to special features or extras as optional accessories. Many clubs, instructors offer the state of the art "Buddy Box" training facility, so talk with an instructor and then buy. What ever you decide one point that is not to be questioned is the FREQUENCY of your radio. The 36 Megahertz band is dedicated to model aircraft and boats. HOW MANY CHANNELS DO I NEED? This is best summed up by saying "A minimum of four channels". You need to control the throttle and the three primary flying surfaces, Ailerons, Elevator and Rudder. Two and three channel radio sets, designed for use with model cars or boats are totally unsuitable for use with model aircraft. WHAT IS A NI-CAD BATTERY? Ni-Cad is the abbreviated term given to Nickel Cadmium rechargeable batteries. Low cost radio sets often use dry cell batteries as a power source. While these sets are quite efficient, the batteries are not rechargeable and therefore need to be replaced frequently at considerable cost. Other sets at a higher cost are supplied with Ni-Cad batteries and charger, which eliminates frequent and costly battery replacement. REMEMBER: Always fully charge your batteries prior to flying. IS SECOND-HAND EQUIPMENT O.K.? For the beginner with limited finance, buying second-hand equipment makes good sense. However, the unwary can quite easily end up spending more than they bargained for if not careful. The key word here is caution. Consider this question carefully, "WHY IS THE VENDOR SELLING THIS EQUIPMENT?" You may be buying someone else's troubles. Wherever possible, seek the help and opinion of an experienced modeller. A radio set may, for instance have faulty components or batteries and have caused a number of costly crashes. An engine may be worn out. A second-hand aircraft may be badly designed or built, or may have a warp in the wing that has caused considerable flying problems and even crashes. On the other hand, much equipment offered for sale is in very good condition and can be a bargain for the beginner. If in doubt, allow for the extra cost of at least $100, which you may have to pay for servicing or replacement parts. WHAT IS A FLIGHT BOX? Below is a suggested list of contents for your flight box: SAFETY IN THE FIELD Model aircraft are dangerous if care and safety is not considered. All flyers are expected to operate with the best interests of safety to people and property. When visiting a field please do not touch unless invited to do so by the owner of a model. As a spectator, if an engine is being started, do not stand at the side or front of a model. Always stand behind and well clear of the aircraft! If you have a pet please ensure that is restrained, or better still left at home. Whilst all clubs encourage junior membership, children should be kept away from the pits and flight line. SHOULD I JOIN A CLUB? A model aircraft is a device that requires considerable mental and physical effort in both its construction and use. Much skill is required in order to fly a model, which, if carelessly used is capable of causing serious injury. The Civil Aviation Safety Authority (CASA) is the governing body of air safety in Australia and you as the operator of a model aircraft are bound by its legislation. You cannot fly model aircraft in public places such as parks and schools etc. Infringements and penalties are severe for offenders. The beginner would be advised to join a club which will provide all the facilities to make sure model flying is enjoyed to the fullest. Learning to fly is definitely not a "do-it-yourself" exercise. The club has instructors willing to devote their services at no charge. The instructor is the newcomer's best insurance against costly crashes whilst learning to fly. More important however, is the fact that the club members are covered by insurance, in the event of damage or injury caused by their models. The clubs' also provide social events, construction advice, contests and fellowship. WHY DO I NEED AN INSTRUCTOR? HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE ME TO LEARN? A member of a club was a former Air Force Pilot flying F86 Jets and was once asked by a newcomer: There is no fast or easy way to learn how to fly, it is a skill that cannot be begged, borrowed, or stolen, only practice will make perfect. No set time can be allowed for learning to fly. Everyone learns at a different rate. Children generally learn to fly much more quickly than adults. As a general guide from the experience of many people who have learned in the past, if you practice for say four flights on one day of each week, allow no less than six weeks to fly solo. Or in case of those who cannot devote the time, as much as twelve months or more. GMAA Airstrips are located at Dog Rocks Rd Fyansford and Shepherds Rd Mannerim.
GMAA CLUB MEETINGS Meetings will be held on the third Tuesday of each
month , the Venue -
Geelong East Uniting Church This information has been compiled for your easy introduction into a great and very enjoyable sport for people of all ages by the GMAA. - Felix Agius
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I began flying model helicopters 3-1/2 years ago. With absolutely no knowledge of radio controlled flying I bought a second hand model and tried to fly it. When this proved difficult I joined the GMAA club, got a few pointers, and practised hovering. I did so many things wrongly, that I think it would be useful give a basic introduction to try help others avoid the same mistakes.
Flying model helicopters is a great deal of fun, but care and patience are required. This information is for people new to helis. The first thing to learn is the hover, and this takes quite a bit of effort. Fortunately assistance can be gained by using a computer simulator, which should save time and money. Helicopters need to be set up correctly, and there is a lot of information to absorb, especially if you have never been involved with radio controlled models before. It is probably better to visit a model flying club and talk to heli owners before buying a model. That way you can get a model which is known at the club and club members will be better able to help you set it up. With buying a model, the first decision to be made is whether to buy an electric powered of glow engine model. Petrol (gas) powered helis are available, but are bigger and not suitable for beginners.
My preference for a first heli is a 30 size glow model. Upgrades to the heli are generally useless until you are well into 3D flying. Some heli pilots are keen to fit their model with a scale body and replicate the smooth flying of a full size helicopter. The simulator is a very useful tool. There is a free one called FMS which can be downloaded on the internet. You will also need a lead from the trainer socket on the transmitter to the computer. These cost about $30 on eBay. The more realistic commercial simulators are Great Planes RealFlight G3, and Reflex XTR. Once you can hover or complete a manoeuvre on the simulator, there is still a psychological step up to the real thing, but it is a great help. Don’t forget that if you crash occasionally on the sim, you will crash occasionally at the field while doing the same manoeuvre. You need to actually practise on the simulator. Thrashing about and crashing doesn’t teach you how to hover, and hovering is the barrier you are trying to overcome. The simulator teaches you which way to move the sticks, but to fly well you need to practise flying the model.
For radio gear, I prefer either Futaba or JR brands because of their reputation for reliability, although there are others that will do the job. You will need a modern radio, known as computer radio, You will need a 6 channel (minimum) transmitter and receiver, 5 servos, a gyro and an on board battery(4.8V nicad). You need to charge the transmitter battery(11V) and the on board battery, so you will need a charger. A basic charger will suffice for glow models, but the lithium batteries in electric models need a specialised charger. Wooden blades are OK for hovering. These can be changed to fibreglass/carbon fibre later on. It is very important that the main blades be balanced. This can be done with good kitchen scales and a knife, or with better specialised equipment. Small amounts of sticky tape are added to achieve the balance. Some more expensive blades come pre-balanced. As well as the normal screw drivers, allen keys pliers etc. you will need:
There are some small electric helicopters at the club – Ark, Twister 3D and T-Rex. Tates Toy Kingdom in Shannon Avenue sell most of the necessities. Battery World in Fyans Street has cheap small electric models. NC Helicopters in Kew is good, and you can always try eBay. Always look around to find the best price! Radios must be frequency certified before being used at the club flying fields. Certification lasts for 2 years. Roger at Battery World can repair radios and certify the frequency. Once you start flying you may have to buy new crystals to change frequency, because you find you are sharing frequencies with other pilots and it limits the amounts of flights during your visit to the field. There is no list of frequencies which members use. Some newer transmitters don’t use crystals, but have a synthesised frequency that can be changed. This would solve the problem. Don’t forget to get a frequency key to put in the board at the flying field so no one will try to fly on your frequency and wreck your model.
Model helicopters and planes don’t mix well, especially when the helis are at the hover only stage. Our club is blessed with two flying fields with plenty of room, so there is always somewhere for helis to fly. Nearly all of the heli activity is at the Dog Rocks site. There is a wealth of information on the internet. Some of my favourite sites are: General information and technique: - Mal Anderson.
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| *** If you have any suggestions for additions to this page, please email us and let us know! *** You'll find more handy hints and tips for beginners in the GMAA Discussion Forum! |
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A model aircraft has basically the same parts of a full size aircraft except that the pilot is not located in the cockpit but operates the controls remotely by radio. A model aircraft has a body called a fuselage and this provides a means of connecting the engine, main wing and "tail feathers" together. The major component of an aircraft is the wing and it is part alone that does all the lifting and flying. Most wings have ailerons and these are used to turn or bank the aircraft in normal flight. The rear wing or horizontal stabiliser provides for a means of controlling the flying level and by use of the attached elevator the aircraft can be made to pitch up or down. The tail or vertical stabiliser provides for straight flight or yawing using its attached rudder whilst taking off and landing. The engine and propeller provide the forward drive of the aircraft and this in turn provides airflow over the wing and creates lift.
There are many trainer models designed specifically for the needs of the beginner. A trainer may not look the part of a Spitfire, however, it is generally slow flying, gentle, forgiving, and well within the flying capabilities of the learner. The high wing model, with plenty of dihedral, is generally favoured.
A flight box, is used to carry all of a modellers accessories and equipment, as needed at the flying field. They come in all shapes and sizes, either commercially made and sold, or built by the modeller himself/herself to his own requirements.
Model aircraft are no different to full size aircraft and it would be disastrous to try and fly without lessons. The instructor is a person with considerable flying ability and skill.He is willing to pass on his knowledge and expertise to the beginner. He will help the newcomer to avoid
costly mistakes and crashes. Initially, instructors will look at the
construction and airworthiness of your aircraft, test fly your
model and perform the tasks of take-off, trimming and
landing. The beginner is therefore able
to have fun while learning. The
beginner knows that should he/she
make a mistake, or cause the
plane to become out of
control, the instructor is
ready to take-over control
instantly, and prevent a
crash. Flying instructors are very willing to help and contact can be made
at the GMAA field.
I wondered if it would be a problem starting at 53 years old, but I seem to have overcome enough barriers to think age just slows progress a little but dosn’t prevent it. I now have a Thunder Tiger Raptor 30 and a Raptor 90, and a JR 3810 radio. I do loops and rolls, and have just started inverted hovering and a bit of inverted flying. I use a computer simulator called Reflex XTR which I think is brilliant. 
There is no need to start with an expensive model. The more expensive it is the more you will be worried about crashing, and this will hold back your progress. Most people crash occasionally while learning to hover. Some very careful people can avoid crashes. I wasn’t one of them. Very few crashes are due to bad luck or radio interference. Most are caused by pilot error. The rest are neglect of basic maintenance.
The heli and the radio gear need to be as reliable as you can make them. Most mechanical and radio failures lead to a crash. A safe landing after an engine failure is possible once you have learned to autorotate, and that is provided you are high enough. The heli should be checked over thoroughly after every days flying. If you are doubtful about any component, investigate and correct it. I would avoid cheap Chinese glow engines.
An obvious question now is the cost. Like every
hobby, you can spend huge amounts of money if you wish, but it is probably better to start with the basics. A small electric model can be under $300 with transmitter. You will outgrow it, but it is a good way to start. Some people spend thousands before they get a heli off the ground. My recommendation, and its only my opinion, is to allow $1200 to $1500, and buy a good radio, a Raptor 30 with a 39 engine, and all the bits and pieces. Raptors can be bought pre-assembled, for not much more than the kit of parts. This is good value, although the assembly is good experience. If it is your first heli, it would be preferable to assemble it yourself rather than buy it “almost ready to fly” (ARF). The Raptor can be upgraded to a 50 size when you need to. By this time you will be doing loops, rolls, autorotations, pirouettes and inverted flying. Don’t underestimate the time involved though. It will take hundreds of hours.
Transmitters are either mode 1, with the throttle on the right hand side, or mode 2 with the throttle on the left hand side. Mode 2 is more logical for helis, and probably a bit easier. The best technique is to pinch the sticks with a thumb and forefinger, as this method is the most precise. The majority at our club fly mode 1 with the thumbs on top of the sticks, but old habits are hard to break.
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